Antique Rug Repair & Restoration

Antique Rug Repair   Antique Rug Restoration   Antique Rug Preservation

The question of whether to restore, repair, or preserve an antique carpet depends on the circumstances. Before we delve into this issue, here is a very brief historical overview of rugs.

Very few Oriental rugs exist that were created before the year 1500 A.D. With the passage of time, all wool textiles oxidize and crumble. Persian and Chinese hand-tied rugs consisted primarily of wool, and at times silk, for the knotting pile. The upright loom is used to create the warp and the weft on which the knots are tied. The knots leave a depression on the back of the rug and this helps to create the surface texture on the pile. The warping at the ends of the rugs later become the rug fringes and are finished off in two different ways: either knotting or overcasting the fringe ends. The rug side cords secure the edges.

Rug knots consist of two types: the Persian or Senneh, also known as the asymmetric knot and the Turkish or Ghiordes, also known as the symmetrical knot. The symmetrical Ghiordes knot is used in all rugs made in Turkey, Caucasus, Turkistan, Northwest Iran (formerly Persia), and some tribal weaving areas in the south of Iran.

Dyeing wool and silk is an art. For that reason color matching is absolutely critical when it comes to antique rugs. Repair, restoration, and preservation all require achieving the right blend of color, wool, and design to match the look and the feel of the rug. Dyes are either derived from natural substances or synthetic, chemical sources. For example, Madder Red dye comes from the root of Rubia tinctorum. Its two principal ingredients are alizarin and purpurin, which yield a vast range of shades. Other red dyes are derived from insects. One is cochineal (Dactylopius coccus). Another is lac, derived from Kerria lacca, also referred to as Laccifer lacca, and widely used in India since ancient times and found in Indian carpets up to the 19th century. Modern synthetic red dyes are also produced in Germany and Switzerland by using high-quality chrome Ciba Giege dyes, which produce different shades of red.

Indigo blue, or true indigo, is obtained from the plant Indigofera tinctoria. Among the plant hues used in antique Oriental rugs, indigo is one of the colors that can be reproduced using modern synthetic dyes, making it extremely hard to distinguish natural vegetable indigo dye from synthetic indigo dye. Indigo dyes have been used on wool, silk, and cotton.

Yellow-colored dyes require scientific analysis to distinguish plant dyes from synthetic dyes. There is a large number of yellow plant-based dyes.

For the color brown, natural vegetable dyes were obtained by using Madder Red, darkened with iron. These are typically found on older rugs.

Greens were invariably obtained by double-dyeing with indigo and one of the yellow dyes.

White and cream shades were derived from natural sheep's wool, camel hair, and sometimes, but infrequently, cotton.

Hand-tied rugs that have undergone a chemical wash are very difficult to match repair wools to since the chemicals change the original color of the wools. As a result, antique rug repair work is an art form. To match colors, wools need to be blended by strand, age, and type to assimilate the exact texture and luster. This requires the rug restorer to re-spin and re-dye the wool to get the exact color match. Replicating the rug design for repairing holes requires the use of a digital camera and a computer that records one knot at a time to provide the antique rug repair technician with a knot-by-knot blueprint. Rebuilding the warp and the weft — the carpet's foundation — requires the same meticulous attention and detailed analysis as wool pile blending.

WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN REPAIR, RESTORATION, AND PRESERVATION?

Repairing stabilizes the integrity of the entire textile, restoring resiliency and strength. It prevents additional injury that structural weakness can cause. Stabilizing the body of the rug can stop unraveling and fraying, which affect not only the rug construction, but the artistry of the rug — and of course the value of the rug.

Most repairs preserve the continued utility of the rug. As with all types of work by hand, the market value, less the cost of repairs, should be assessed to determine whether to proceed or to what extent to proceed with the repair. Another factor to consider is the sentimental or artistic worth in addition to the monetary value of antique rugs. Repair can enhance or diminish the rug's value artistically and/or monetarily; each rug will need to be evaluated by a rug expert to determine whether repairs will compromise the original properties of the rug, and in turn, impact the value of the rug.

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Antique carpet restoration is costly because the repairer must match the dyes, wools, and construction to that of the original rug. In other words, the damaged part is replaced to match the original. This means that the physical construction and the attributes of the rug need to be replicated: weave structure, wool texture, and design. (For example, antique rugs require the use of antique wools and the same dyes.) Most antique carpets that truly qualify for restoration need to be very valuable rugs — meaning they're not only old but rare, too. Sadly, only 10% of the antique rugs in people's homes qualify for restoration.

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Preservation of carpets is reserved for only the rarest example of rug artistry because any alteration of them could diminish their artistic excellence. These types of rugs are normally used for display only. Most rugs of this category are scarce and not normally used on the floor. Preserving the original structure and ensuring its longevity is of utmost importance. Preservation of rugs, like other art forms, attempts to stabilize the rug without changing its current condition. Stabilizing it may involve physical reinforcement of a delicate area without creating a structural change.

PARTS OF RUGS THAT NEED REPAIR:

Most common antique rug repairs: ends, edges, holes, and field wear.

Rug ends consist of the vertical warp thread of the rug loom on which the knots were tied originally. These become the extended fringe ends. The tightness on the fringe ends is critical to keep the ends of rugs from fraying and unraveling. It is very important that end borders remain intact and do not fray to prevent loss of end border colors. Normally a rug fringe-end will need re-working later on in the life of the rug. The five ways rug fringes are finished are: knotted, overcasting the ends, sewn chain stitch, elaborate braiding, and hand-weaving individual fringe lengths into the rug body. Note: Care should be taken not to vacuum over fringe.

Rug edges wear away the quickest. Normally repairs are done in two ways. Provided the edge cording is intact, it can easily be overcast with matching colored wool. All repairs need to be done by hand, not by machine. If the original edge cording is completely worn through, then new warping will need to be secured, sewn, and strung under tension, followed by overcasting. An alternative procedure is to weave by hand, closely and securely, a pre-fabricated edge into the edge of the rug.

In Their Own Words: "We left a planter on our living room Oriental rug from India for two weeks not knowing it had discolored a complete circle under it with white mold. We sought advice from RugSpa in Spokane, WA. They advised us how to treat the white mold ourselves. We followed their instructions and it worked! " -Jose Seligson from New York City, NY More Testimonials >>

Field wear occurs from abrasion or usage — walking on the rug. Wear can also occur when rug edges are turned under, and when rugs are badly wrinkled and not laying flat and even. Damage can also occur from insects (such as moths). Re-knotting using wool of the same color and texture can be done using a needle. If warp and weft are worn through, they will need to be replaced first before re-knotting and re-piling.

OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION

In America, when a rug is washed, soil removal reveals the following composite:

1. 45% sand and clay
2. 12% animal protein fibers
3. 12% cellulose fibers
4. 10% alcohol-soluble particles (resins, gums, fatty acids)
5. 6% ether-soluble particles (fats, oils, rubber, asphalt)
6. 5% gypsum
7. 5% limestone
8. 3% moisture
9. 2% miscellaneous

Professional hand-washing of antique wool rugs removes the aforementioned pollutants and serves to moisturize and rejuvenate the wool. Wool is a natural fiber and needs lanolin-based moisturizers to maintain wool integrity. "Re-lanolining" antique rugs adds luster and finish to the wools. Hydrous lanolin, coconut oil, and mineral oil may be used to clean antique wool rugs since they all contain lanolin.

Stretching, sizing, and blocking ensures that rugs lay properly on the floor. Good rug service plants can carefully stretch, size, and block rugs.

Wrapping for storing or shipping: Use Tyveh, which is white, waterproof paper that breathes well, is strong protection, and may be used for wrapping rugs. Always clean and mothproof your rugs before putting them into a warm, dry storage space.

Folding or rolling rugs: For storing and transporting rugs, rolling them lengthwise is the preferred method. If folding is your only option, fold into thirds and create a loose roll to preventing creasing, which damages the rug in the long term.

Mothproofing: Liquid solution is available at rug service plants to guard against insect infestation.

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